All Innovative Concrete Stain and Metal Flake Epoxy Rates

Our rates for a basic concrete stain and 2 coats of acrylic sealer start at $2.75 per sq ft. This is mostly a residential choice that is only durable with light foot traffic as the sealer is topical and can wear off quickly under commercial use.

For durability needed in a work environment we recommend diamond polishing ,concrete color stain, and penetrating sealer for $5.75 per square foot. If you have more than 1000 sq ft we offer discounts.

I like to be up front with clients , stained concrete is not a bulletproof floor, it can be scratched, chipped, or worn back to its original color. However, it has a competitive price and is cheap and easy to maintain, repair, or modify.

Tile removal and haul-off is $2.50 per sq ft
$.75-$1.00 for carpet , tack-strip , and glue removal . Tack-strip hole patching included

With cases in which the concrete is too blemished to be color stained, we offer the latest trend in flooring, Metal Flake Epoxy. This is a durable option that covers patching, cracks, glue marks, and concrete color differences that can occur in different concrete slab pours. The color and look resembles stained concrete, but adds a beautiful luster and greater color control. Then we add an additional layer of durability with a matte, semi-gloss, or gloss urethane clear coat.

Metal Flake Epoxy Flooring System- $6.00 per sq ft

We look forward to working with you. If this is within your budget , I would be happy to come to your project to give a free consultation and final quote at a time convenient to you.
Thanks,
Joel
512-838-0730 (feel free to text)

Concrete Acid Stain for your Austin Home Flooring

I found an article online with some interesting and useful information.  Here is a synopsis.

Concrete acid stain can be applied to new or old, plain or colored concrete surfaces. They are available in 10 basic colors, though more can be created by combining them. Although they are often called acid stains, acid is not the ingredient that colors the concrete. Metallic salts in an acidic, water based solution react with the concrete to permanently color of the surface. Siliceous aggregates such as gravel or sand, do not react with the stain. Surfaces containing a higher content of cement will react more than one with less cement yielding more intense colors.

Since each surface is different, results may vary from one surface to another. We always recommend testing a small area to determine how the final result will appear. Note that the final color will not be apparent until the sealer has been applied. With wood stain you can still see the grain of the wood through the stain, acid stain is very similar to wood stain as you can see all defects or finishing marks through it, that said, it can give the look of the concrete character, but this depends upon your tastes…I personally am of the believe that little dings, dents, and scratches give Frankie more character, but to each their own.

Factors that may affect the final results include:

  • Cement properties and amount used, Admixtures and type of aggregate used.
  • Concrete finishing methods, concrete age, and moisture content
  • Porosity and Texture of the surface
  • Weather conditions when the stain is applied
  • Efflorescence.

 

Concrete acid stain finishes do not require much equipment for the application. The applicator usually uses a garden sprayer that is completely plastic. Some prefer a fine bristle brush or a combination of both. All equipment that will come in contact with the acid stain, such as sprayers, must be resistant to acid. Brushes to apply or spread the stain must be resistant to acid, and also colorless bristles.

Workers must have the proper safety equipment, including acid-resistant gloves, goggles, boots and masks to filter the acid fumes. A good quality wet vacuum is recommended for cleaning. Golf spikes are also recommended because footprints will show through and create undesirable markings in the final appearance.

Surface Preparation

Surface preparation is considered the most important step in any decorative concrete application. It is important for the immediate and long term performance of all decorative concrete applications. Poor surface preparation can turn a simple process in to a difficult and lengthy repair.

First you will need to throw some water on the surface in several places to see if the concrete accepts the water. If it is not absorbed by concrete, you may have a sealer on your surface. If so, you will need to strip the surface using EnduraPrep Coatings Stripper. This stripper is ideal for removing coatings such as paint or acrylic stains and colorants. If there is not a sealer on the surface, but it will not absorb water, then your surface is too dense. This is usually caused by over troweling of the surface when the concrete was poured. It is very important to condition these types of surfaces to accept the acid stain. Surface conditioning is often the key to success. If it does not accept the water, it will certainly have to be conditioned. Sometimes, very dense surfaces must be conditioned twice. When the surface is conditioned properly, it should feel like sandpaper of 120 grit. To use EnduraColor Reactive Concrete Stain, DO NOT USE hydrochloric acid on the surface because it would deprive the concrete of the necessary minerals to react with the acid stain. There are products on the market which can condition your concrete floor for receiving the acid stain.

The surface must be clean and free of grease and oil, drops of paint, taping adhesive residue, caulk, cement, or any other surface contaminants. All that remains on the surface will affect the final result of the surface.

If patching is necessary, you should use a material with low shrinkage that will accept the stain. The final result will always show these patches. The owner must be aware of this.  You might consider doing a concrete overlay if you have many patches, or holes due to carpet tack strip removal.

Decorative patterns with templates can improve the appearance of stained surfaces. The timing of these operations, however, depends on the desired effect. When you want the final appearance to be as even as possible in color, cut lines and patterns after staining is complete. Stains penetrate differently around cuts and indentations. If you want there to be a color change at a pattern line, cut the line first to form a barrier to stain movement. If sawed joints will be grouted, complete the staining and sealing before grouting to help prevent the stain from coloring your grout.

Patterns are usually arranged in pencil or chalk. Mark only where you will cut. Also don’t use chalk that is difficult to remove. Many tools are available for cutting pattern lines in concrete. Most installers use grinders and hand saws with tables, riding against a guide. A 1-1/2 “extruded aluminum” L “angle, available in most hardware stores, will make a good guide. Diamond blades for dry cutting do minimal damage to the edge of the cut. Dust Collectors that attach to grinders and saws are very useful to acid stain applicators.

If patterns are cut before staining, cut just before cleaning the surface prior to staining. Saw dust containing free lime can bind to the surface, causing distortion. If cut after staining, do so after the first coat of sealer has been applied.

 

We have stained the concrete flooring of many homes and businesses in the Austin area.  If you live in Austin, or surrounding area and area interested in getting a quote for concrete stain for your home flooring, or business for that matter, we would love to hear from you!

Removing Carpet and the Tack strip in preparation for Concrete Stain

At least once per week I get a call from a potential client who has pulled up their carpet in preparation for staining their concrete flooring, or applying a metal flake epoxy. The problem is removal of carpet tack strip from a concrete floor generally leaves large gouges where the nails we embedded (due to the type of nails used when securing wood to concrete).

Sadly, the only way known to mortal man to remove the wooden tack strip without leaving these gouges in your concrete is to use a dremmel tool to nub off the top of the nail.  If you’re staining your concrete this may not be the best solution, as it takes some precision to get the nail cut off even with the concrete.  Aside from this, it shouldn’t be noticeable.

However, if you’ve already pulled up the carpeting tack strip, nails, and already left holes in your concrete floor, I’m sure that comes as little consolation.  We do have an answer for you, though!  We can do what is called a concrete overlay to your existing concrete floor which both fills the gaping holes and makes for any concrete stain you apply to look more even and fresh.   We can do with with both hand concrete trowels or through a spray concrete we keep in stock.

If you have pulled up your carpet and need to fill the holes left by the tack strip, give us a call, or email for a free quote.  All we need to know is the square footage and we can give it to you over the phone or email.

Call Joel – (512)848-0730, or email Joel@stainedconcreteaustin.org.

Metal Flake Epoxy Flooring For Your Home

A few days ago, I wrote about how metal flake epoxy coatings are great for your garage.  However, it doesn’t stop there, metal flake epoxy can be used as flooring throughout your home!

Epoxy coatings are great flooring alternatives for residential floors. With many options to choose from and the longevity of the floor is almost unbeatable. Industrial epoxy floor coatings, even metal flake epoxy (the prettiest) will last from 15 to 30+ years depending on the application you choose. Cost can range anywhere from $2.00 to $10.00 a square foot, but the price is dependent upon several factors.  Feel free to call us at (512) 848-0730 for a quote over the phone.

 For pictures of some of my previous work you can check out our gallery, or our Facebook page (Like us! Like us!!  :-).

I have been doing epoxy floor coatings for over five years now and we are seeing more and more customers having there garage floors coated and turning them into living space. No more ugly grey concrete with oil stains all over it. We see big screen TV’s installed in garages and bars on wheels that can be rolled out into the center of the garage. Football games, nascar, baseball etc… More and more people are turning there garage into living space. Most garage floors are anywhere from 400 to 800 sqft and bigger and that is like adding another room onto your house but it is already there, when the party is over pull your vehicle in and its like a showroom.

Epoxy coatings are not only good for garage floors they are great for basement floors also, If you have a basement that has water problems epoxy flooring is perfect. Epoxy is waterproof, no more pulling up carpet and replacing it every time it rains, just pull out the shop vac and vacuum it up or mop it and problem solved. Epoxy flooring is mold and mildew resistant and allergen free, and did I mention chemical and stain resistant and easy to clean.

Floor preparation is everything, the pores in the concrete need to be opened up before the coating is applied. floor preparation begins with removing oil stains and sealers or any other contaminates epoxy will not adhere to oil or other contaminates. the second step is grinding the top surface of the floor with a diamond grinder or a shot blaster to open up the pores. acid etching does not open the pores enough. You will also need a good vacuum because the dust is terrible and very dangerous to breath.The third step after the pores are opened is to clean the concrete with a vacuum and a leaf blower works great, you need to get the dust off the floor. Water is not a good idea unless you are going to let the floor dry for some time before coating as it will make the epoxy turn white. If you floor has cracks this is a good time to do any repairs and I will get into that later. Now your ready for epoxy and we recommend that you follow the manufactures directions on application techniques if you are going to do this yourself.

Cracks can be repaired with a couple different methods depending on how bad the cracks are. Rule of thumb is that if you can fit a credit card into the crack it should be repaired. We start by chasing out the crack with a crack chaser blade to open up the crack and to remove any loose aggregate. clean the crack out real good with compressed air and your ready to repair. There are numerous epoxy’s for crack repair on the market. we use a epoxy sand mix to repair our cracks but you should follow your manufacturers recommendations. After the epoxy dries grind the repaired area flat and clean it and your ready to coat.

Whether you’re looking for a durable floor or a decorative application you can achieve this with metal flake epoxy coatings, Epoxy coatings are usually two part epoxy containing part A and part B make sure you follow the manufacturers directions on how to use there epoxy or better yet hire a professional to do the work for you. Never mix more epoxy than you can put down in 20 minutes as the epoxy will start to set up, it is usually requires two or more people to do a floor in epoxy. there are classes available to learn how to do epoxy coatings if you are interested in learning the process classes are expensive and you can rent the equipment but Sometimes you are better off hiring a professional to do the work for you.

Metal Flake Epoxy is Great for Garage Floor Coating

The majority of the garage coating systems will include a product or polyurethane epoxy that bind to a floor of concrete or cement and dried out to a kind of ceramic finish. The majority of epoxies be made of a single or two-component liquid mix which, when mixed, is able to be used as a basic coverage, sealer and protecting finish. This is perfect for use as flooring garage. As the possessor is for all time looking for techniques to get better your home, garage coatings are gaining additional recognition.

Coating systems are well intent in the garage to defend against oil, solvents, clay, water and fat is found in a garage. This builds them perfect for other use in sunrooms, laundry, and workshop and garage entrance. The question comes into play is that nearly all of them not have access to necessary tools for setting up the area for the epoxy coating system, or include no right to use to substance quality for making a long setting up trouble free expression.

Color options for the metal flake epoxy coating system: If the old gray does not satisfy your needs and taste you can as well decorate your garage, do not be concerned, there are ample of basic colors and alternatives available. Layers of metal flake epoxy possibly can be filled with special colored chips and gives a speckled or stonework effect. A well-liked choice for the use of acrylic flakes or spots of color provide you just the impression of being terrazzo.

Additional Finishes: color likes silver, black or gold are brilliant preferences for finishes and designs can be twisted to go well with almost all the taste and financial plan. These layers of epoxy flooring for your garage are a valuable tool not only to smarten up your garage, but as well to take care of the concrete floor against climatic conditions, oil cracking, chemical and wetness.  We can do just about any conceivable color of metal flake epoxy floor.

A number of products are stating that the garage coatings are in fact stronger when compared to the concrete, thus expanding the life of your garage floor. Even though if you appoint a specialized or an expert to apply a coating to your garage, you have a list of products which can be ordered online or buy from your home improvement nearby are low odor, self-priming and dried out quickly, the major negative aspect is the durability and hardness of a grade “residential” Finish “. An expert may possibly coat your garage floor in a couple of days. The garage floor should be degreased, dirt free and stored, or mistreated. This let the resin to bond with concrete.

Applying Stain on your Concrete Floor

When looking to decorate your home or work place with a distinct and long lasting color effect, look no further than acid stain concrete flooring to bring life and brightness to your floors and rooms. Acid based concrete stains, if properly applied to a clean surface, will be permanent and cost-effective. The chemical properties of the acid based solutions changes the makeup of the concrete to take on whatever color the acid stain is, with attractive color scheme options. Acid Stain Concrete Floorings have time and again proven their reliability when it comes to cost efficiency, durability and the strength of the flooring.

The concrete floorings setting has caught on and can be found almost everywhere now, including residential properties like high rise condominiums and even basement areas that are restructured to gain extra space. Here in this article, you will find that the simple steps on how to stain concrete. Staining concrete is something that you can easily do yourself or pay a professional to do if you desire a more complex decorative concrete plan.

Step 1: Select the Color of your floor

You can select from a variety of colors. Ensure that color you select matches the shade of the flooring material as well as your surroundings.

Step2: Cleaning the Floor

Make sure that all dirt and grease is removed completely from the surface of the concrete. Making a smooth, uniform surface will help the look and feel of the concrete after the stain is applied. After you clean the floor you will need to sweep and mop the concrete to get rid of all the dust.

Step3: Cover all the walls or surfaces

After the floor is dust free and leveled down to a desirable consistency, you will need to cover all the walls or surfaces so that they are not affected by the acid stain. Acid stain is highly responsive and reactive and may damage all metal surfaces and may leave stains on walls and furniture. So, better would be to cover up all the walls, surfaces and furniture.

Step 4: Gather all your Tools

Make sure to collect all your tools and materials before you start working on acid stain concrete floor. All tools and materials are easily available at the local stores.

Step 5: Read Manufacturer’s Instructions

The next step is to read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully to avoid any complications while applying acid stain to your concrete floors.

When choosing an acid stain contractor it is essential to choose a professional with a lot of experience. If your contractor is not proficient in preparing your concrete floor before applying the chemical compounds, you might have premature cracking and a damaged concrete floor.

DIY Concrete Stain Recommendations

Do it yourself concrete staining is the cheapest and easiest way to enhance the appearance of your concrete surfaces. The alternatives, tearing out existing concrete and replacing with new or decorative overlays, are not recommended for do-it-yourselfers and can be very expensive. But before you begin your staining project there are a few things you need to know.

There are two types of concrete stains to choose from, acid stains and acrylic stains. Acid stains work by chemically reacting with free lime in the surface to produce a natural looking, translucent color. They create a mottled, variegated, multi-hued coloring. Every concrete surface reacts differently to acids stains making each job unique. Acrylic stains are waterborne and have pigments that seep into the pores and adhere to the concrete, therefore creating a more consistent, semi translucent color like that of a dye. Acrylic stains will help mask imperfections and discolorations whereas acid stains actually accentuate them.

For many surfaces, acid and acrylic stains will work equally as well, but which one you choose depends on the look you want. However, there are situations where one type will work better than the other. For older, exterior concrete (more than 15-20 yrs old) acid stains may not work because much of the free lime has leeched away. Acrylic stains are great for old concrete because of its increased porosity over time. Acid stains work well with newer concrete because of the availability of free lime. If repairs need to be made such as patching pop outs or scaling, then acrylics may be the better choice to help disguise the repairs. Any patching materials will stand out with acid stains. For smooth trowelled interior surfaces with less porosity, acid stains are usually better because they don’t require as much penetration to color the concrete.

Before beginning it’s also important to have realistic expectations. Staining can turn dull, gray concrete into a beautiful and colorful finish, but it’s impossible to know exactly how the finished product will look, especially with acid stains. Every concrete surface is different and so will accept stains differently. The exact same stain will have two different appearances with two different slabs. Even seasoned pros can’t predict the exact outcome of a staining job. For this reason, it’s not a good idea to try to exactly match the color of concrete to anything else such as brick or siding. There’s a very good chance you won’t be successful. Instead, choose a complimentary color or shade for your concrete. For instance, if you have light brown siding, then choose a dark brown stain.

The most critical part of staining is preparation. Take time in deciding how you want your concrete to look and getting the surface ready to apply the stain. You get one shot at getting it right unless you want to do a major overhaul to the surface. Do it yourself concrete staining is not a difficult process but does require an honest effort to be satisfied your finished product.

 

A New look by changing your flooring to concrete stain

Concrete stain can transform your old drab gray concrete driveway, patio or sidewalk into a great new look. Concrete stain provides a look that you can be proud of and one that enhances the value of your home. Concrete stain is a perfect choice to get a new look rather than going to the expense of replacing your old concrete.

As with any project you start, preparation is critical if you want great results. This holds true with concrete stain and is probably the most important step in the process of using concrete stain to change the appearance of your drab concrete. Preparing your old concrete for a new concrete stain is a relatively easy process, even for a novice.

In preparation to applying a concrete stain, you first need to insure that you have all other surfaces and plants protected so that the spray will not harm them. You can use plastic sheeting in this step of the concrete stain process.

Once you have your protection in place, especially protecting your plants from the acid stain, you will then be ready to clean the concrete surface so that you can apply the concrete stain. All of the loose dirt and debris can be swept up and discarded. If you have any concrete sealer, paint, wax, oil and other such chemicals on your concrete, you have to remove this as well. In many cases, a soapy detergent with a pressure washer or scrub brush will do the trick. As for the concrete sealer and wax, you may need to use a stripper product in order to remove it from your concrete.

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